Still Midnight in Mexico

What is Midnight in Mexico? It could be said that it is the darkness that expats are left in, when it comes to knowing and understanding the intertwined worlds of crime, corruption and drugs in Mexico. Others say it is that midnight is the time of new hope for a brighter day in Mexico. Actually, Midnight in Mexico is a new book, written by journalist Alfredo Corchado, who dared to write about the heroic and often fatal consequences of journalism in Mexican's drug torn cities.

Having been to Mexico several times, I must say, I've never felt unsafe. That's not to say I haven't been on the edge of my seat - flying out of my comfort zone. Those that know me, know that I can be more than a little blind to dangerous situations. I am glad that I've never been in a car accident in Mexico, in need of medical care, or worse, arrested! Although there was that time....

I made our reservation to Mexico the same week news broke about the 43 college students who were killed and incinerated after they were seized by police in Guerrero, which, if you read the reports sounds like an episode of Breaking Bad. It was no wonder that our friends and family members were saying, "Mexico, REALLY? Isn't the cartel there?"

I must say, the big question gringos visiting San Miguel ask is, "Is the drug cartel in San Miguel?  The short answer, according to the locals is, "absolutely". So when I read that Alfredo Corchado, Mexican Bureau Chief for the Dallas Morning News, and author of Midnight in Mexico, was speaking in San Miguel, I was curious. Just what is the experience of journalists, trying to report on the convergence of crime, corruption and the cartel?

We arrived on-time (shock of shocks). But by then, over 200 people had assembled, filling the Bellas Artes and spilling out onto the balcony. Apparently, I wasn't the only person that was curious. While Carchado's book delves into the incestuous relationship between the drug cartel and Mexican government, it is also a self-described confession to his mother, who he promised he would write about travel, food, entertainment - anything but the shadows of Mexico. 

It's been said, that Carchado doesn't just report the news, he lives it. In his opening remarks, he shared that his current view of reform in Mexico, is that the government has done a good job getting people to "believe" it's changed. In reality, reporters that insist on covering the Mexico beat are often found dead, tortured, or worse, their families are kidnapped. So, the real stories go untold. According to Corchado, over the last four years 97 journalists have been murdered, at least 12 have disappeared and still others have fled for their lives, been threatened or assaulted - after attempting to uncover and report the realities of Mexico. You could hear a pin drop in the audience, when Corchado followed-up by saying, "When you silence a journalist, you silence a community".  This has left many journalist in a state of apathy - to question, why speak up, if nothing's gonna change?  The reality hit hard - unless a story can find its way from a Mexican journalist to a newsroom in the US, it often goes untold.   

In his book, Midnight in Mexico, Corchado proclaimed that it's not just the violence that's plagued Mexico, it's the lack of "rule of law" - fueled by government promoted propaganda and institutional corruption. Corchado went on the say, "It's obvious, Mexico is the tale of two countries - the "haves and the have-nots". And, from discussions here on immigration, and from what I know now, it seems that money lines the pockets of elected officials rather that being allocated to programs for the poor. Perhaps the most well known example, being protested by the Mexican people, is the $7.1 million home, purchased recently by Mexico's newest president, Enrique Peña Nieto.  

So what is needed in Mexico? Corchado suggests that it's building the infrastructure and that police officers need to be paid better and receive pensions. The government must instill a sense that law enforcement officers are guardians not enemies. A sign that things have improved is when  journalists can freely report the news and when people become more civically involved.   When asked if legalizing drugs would end the cartels, it was suggested, that if not drugs, the cartels would find the next illegal thing to transport across the boarder. History shows that when the crackdown on drugs was happening, organized crime leaders just shifted to kidnappings, extortion and robberies. It was a "game-changer", when people stared hanging from bridges. "Bottom line, - the thirst for money will never end", said Corchado.

We ended our evening by learning that San Miguel wasn't without violence to reporters, as a kidnapping that took place just outside of our town in June, 2007. Eduardo Valseca, son of a prominent newspaper publisher was kidnapped and held for ransom for more than 7 months. Edwardo Valseca

We left the Bellas Artes in silence, as we processed all that we had heard. We walked for some time, through the dark streets of San Miguel, feeling enlightened - a little more realistic about paradise and a lot more appreciative of those that risk their lives to tell Mexico's stories. I almost wished we hadn't gone, there were things about Mexico that I didn't want to know. It was nice to be in the dark - not safe, but nice. 

Out and About in San Miguel

Getting out and about in San Miguel is easy, as far as cities with hills, narrow streets, cobble stones, buses, taxis - and did I mention LOTS of hills? For the most part, we walk everywhere we go, with the exception of an occasional late night, when the day has done us in.  Our place is up hill from El Centro, which means that it is high enough to have a great view and high enough to be a HIKE. Here is a photo of our place. We have the second and third floor with big windows in the front for seeing the hot air balloons in the morning and hearing the collective church bells ringing in unison. It's perfect for us.

My pocket street map has done its job, leading us to movies, restaurants, events around town, bakeries, etc. Just when I think we don't need it anymore, we find ourselves comparing notes or second guessing. Don't get me wrong, there are landmarks, but the landmarks all seem to look the same.  What you don't see very often is bicycles. This little guy, who was way to small for the size of the bike, had no problem scooting up our street. He was adorable and the only bike rider I've seen.

Walking the cobblestone streets can be challenging, but great for building good balance and strong ankles. I challenge even the best multi-tasking adolescent, my niece included (and she's good) to text while navigating the streets of San Miguel. No surprise, I've been late a time or two, to a class or event, and running down the street nearly killed me. A 30 minute walk to my pottery class gives me an opportunity to play the game of trying to select a flat stone for each and every step, or counting how many flat stones I can step on in a row, before I mistakenly step on an ankle-twister. One thing is for sure Robert Sweetgall would be happy - I'm getting in my 10,000 steps a day. 

Taxis are plentiful and charge about 30 pesos ($2 US) to go down hill and about 40 pesos to go back up. There was a price hike recently, so don't plan your budget by Trip Advisor. Knowing the one way streets and the best places for catching a cab can save you money, i.e., avoid cabs waiting at the bus station or having someone call you one - you'll pay a lot more! It hasn't been scientifically proven, but my observation is that the cab drivers give you a bit of a break, if you do your best to have a conversation with them - in Spanish (yikes!)

The cabs are all green but, as we learned when David left his cell phone and hat in a cab, there are about 12 different companies (never did find the phone and hat). For the most part, the taxi drivers are all great - eager to talk about the day, share about San Miguel, correct your Spanish, etc. Edwardo, my driver to the Tuesday Market, worked many years ago in a U.S. hospital, so he spoke a little English. Great fun!

I learned early on that taking the bus, although not popular with the Gringos, is really the way to go, if you have half a day to kill. It cost 5 pesos to go to any destination in the San Miguel. Go anywhere in the world and I guarantee, you'll see the greatest slice of life by taking the bus.

I first decided to try it, after taking a taxi to one of the big mega markets. With my bags full to the brim with fruits, vegetables, oatmeal, etc., I said no to at least six taxi drivers, who thought for sure I was waiting for them. I wasn't sure how to take the bus, but was bound and determined, after all, what could happen, right? The buses have the name of the destination on the front window (most of the time). It took a very long time to get within walking distance of home, but for 5 pesos, I got the best taste of life in San Miguel. It was also the cheapest tour bus I've ever been on - 35 cents. 

I've almost missed the bus to the market on a few occasions, because the bus stop in el Centro is always so full of excitement. People watching is terrific and I just find watching people, watch people so entertaining - people begging, street food being prepared, fruit being sold, school children coming and going, people getting home from work are all part of the experience. Amazing!

 
So quick story: Last week, I took a taxi to the edge of town, to go to the huge tianquis (flea market) known locally as the Tuesday Market. Hundreds of Mexicans were there, buying and selling anything and everything (more about this fun market soon). When I entered the bus to get back into town, it was packed - standing room only. I looked around, trying to take-in the vibe of the bus. I found myself wondering if Mexican men ever give-up their seat on a bus to an older woman, especially older exhausted women who bought too much at the market (it was the end of a long day and I could have used a seat). Looking side-to-side, I saw I was the only gringo on the bus.  

As more and more people packed onto the bus, I found myself being pushed farther and farther back, still standing uncomfortably, with all my purchases, in the center isle. As I inched, I became more aware that I was nearing the back of the bus and might run out of room. That was when I turned and saw Gloria Steinem, sitting there, by herself, riding in the back of a bus, in the middle of Mexico. I knew she was coming for a writer's conference in February, but never expected to see her. As I turned, and OK, I admit it - starred at her, she smiled slightly, as if to say, "we are sharing this moment, you and I, and it's pretty #%*%@* incredible." 

Later, after she got off, I chucked to myself - for I actually thought about men (Mexican or otherwise) giving up their seat on a bus to a woman, in the presence of Gloria Steinem. 

So my take home message? Take to bus when visiting San Miguel, and stand proudly in the center isle.   Stay tuned.

News From the Front

We are at the half way point in our San Miguel adventure and I can honestly say there is too much to write about. To have the luxury to plan nothing or plan too much (which is usually the case) is wonderful and exactly what we were hoping for. 

Huevos Rancheros and Pleasure Book Reading at Muro

We started our second week with a leisurely Sunday morning breakfast and some reading at one of my favorite breakfast spots Cafe Muro, on Calle Loreto. 

We really spent the day walking around San Miguel - catching the sites and sounds, and experiencing the people and food in the city. There is always something going on in the Jardin (City Center) and having street food is a real treat, so to quench our thirst and boost our blood sugar we got a tub of freshly cut fruit, doused with lime juice and sprinkled with a spicy chilly seasoning. 

Assortment of Melons with Chilies - YUM

We found a great little movie theater that holds about 24 people called the Pocket Theater. We have since seen Fox Catcher and Diplomacy there. They fill up fast so we have had a few disappointing times, trying to make it there without getting lost or taking too long to walk there. For the price of admission ($7.00US) you get the movie, something to drink and a free bag of popcorn. Actually, I think that the movie is free, because of some legal consequence to charging for the movie (word on the street), so they charge for the drink and popcorn instead. Anyway, they have a great variety of new releases in English and current foreign films. 

Sunday was one of those days, we arrived too late to get in, so we sat in the park, listening to the battle of the mariachi bands, watching the shoe shine men, Mexican families - children with their ice cream, and the vendors selling their handicrafts.  We later caught up with new friends Jill and David and had a great dinner at La Posadita - a rooftop restaurant with one of the best views of the churches. The food was absolutely mouth watering. Here's to great food, a lazy day and new friends!

Some Tai Chi / Mambo Fusion

On Monday, David was back to work and I was off to find Lydia again. This time, Jill and I tracked her down and attended her version of a mambo tai chi class. What a great time!!! So it's Lydia Monday, Wednesday and Fridays in the park until we leave.

Monday was also my introduction to the Barro.co Clay Studio. I knew when I heard Tracy Chapman and Van Morrison playing, I was in a great place. There are so many art classes in San Miguel, that I had a difficult time choosing between photography, pastels or pottery class. I went with pottery, since the terracotta folk art and masks in Mexican museums have always resonated with me. 

Barroco Clay Studio

So there I was, a full bucket of wet clay and a zillion ideas in my head. I ended the first day bursting out laughing, as the other eight students silently concentrated on their work. It's a lot harder that it looks, after-all, I thought, how much harder than playing with Playdough can it be? Remember the little machine with the little cookie cutter shapes to chose from? Adria and Roberto were really patient and somehow at the end of day two, I had something that resembled a person, starting to come to life.


I was invited by Else Marie, from Ojala de Ninos, to attend a really great fund raising event called, "100 Women Who Care". When I walked in, there were, no lie, at least 100 women sitting in this room, mostly Gringos. The way it works is that they each donate between $70 and $700 US dollars, some in teams of two or four. Each person that represents a charity enters the name of that charity (only once) into a drawing. Three charities are chosen at random from the basket of names. A representative from each of the charities then gets up in front of the group and has five minutes to share the mission of the charity and why they deserve to receive all the donations brought in that day. Then all those attending vote on the charity they think should get the funding. The winner takes home the full amount. Do the math, one charity benefits big from the function. They hold these monthly.

100 Women Who Care

On my way home, I passed the flower vendor, to get some flowers for David. How fun to celebrate our six month wedding anniversary here in San Miguel. We went out for a great dinner and took a long stroll in the warmth of San Miguel.

Tuesday was David's day off. We booked a tour to some neighboring towns. As previously posted, our trip took in the Castillo Talavera Ceramic Factory (see Searching for Talavera) and some great other sites, which I will write about soon.

Wednesday I went out to Ojala, to spend time with the children, while David worked :(. I had so much fun. All the volunteers met at the Bodega Aurrerra (one of three mega markets at the edge of town), then piled into a few cars, and we were off to Old San Miguel. Through the generosity of others, Ojala teaches Spanish and literacy skills, arts and crafts and vocational skills. I understand, from the 100 Women Who Care event, that in rural parts of Guanajuato, only 12% of children complete the 6th grade. So these skills taught at Ojala are extremely important. Ojala gives children a place to go after school and for toddlers, a place to go for a preschool experience. I'll post photos soon.

On Thursday, we heard from our pyramid guide, Albert Coffee that we were on for horseback riding for Saturday. We knew that it would be a long day, and that since the price included travel insurance, which made me think we were at risk of losing our lives, we laid low on Friday - did laundry (by hand) made some home cooked meals and prepared to meet our fate with Rodrigo from Coyote Canyon Adventures. We went to see the movie, "The Other Side of Immigration" at the Shelter Theater, about the struggles of Mexican men and their families when they go over the boarder to the U.S. to find work. It gave me a new perspective on Mexico and its people. If you can see it, I guarantee, you'll never think of immigration reform in the same way.

 
Friday we went to see a great quartet, who played and sang French love ballads. At first, I felt way too tired to go, but then I kept thinking of my recent Paris encounters - was I "supposed to go" for some reason? It made me think of my friend Anne-Marie, who loves and just visited Paris and my recent conversation with my niece McKayla, about going to Paris together. When David and I talked about going somewhere next year for a month, Paris was a consideration. And then, when we entered our house rental here in San Miguel, there were two sketches of Paris on the wall.  Hmmm. It turned out to be a great, relaxing evening and they sang songs from many of the old French romance movies. Thank you Chansons - we loved it!.

Horseback riding on Saturday was a blast. Sitting here three days later, I can still feel the affects - if ya know what I mean!  This was the first time I had straight-out galloped on a horse. I mean, we ran those horses! It wasn't one of those touristy, stay in a line, or worse yet - tie you to the horse kind of adventures. It was a six hour day with a great ride down into the canyon, through streams and back up the other side. 

We (and there were eight of us in our group) had a great lunch at one of the ranches. Those that were brave enough (and I was NOT) repelled down the side of a 150ft. cliff. David and I watched. 

My horse wanted to be in front of the pack, nipping the horses in front of him that were going too slow and taking a chunk out of the dog's hind end that got under his feet. So, when the photo op on the side of the cliff was offered, I passed. I thought my horse might just take a leap right over the edge. So, I opted to dismount my horse and stand next to David for this photo.  We really had a great day. I recommend Rodrigo and his cowboys for a day you'd never forget. (and three days of not being able to walk - haha)

This part of Mexico was truly one of the most breathtaking places I have ever been. 

Our adventures did not stop there. I will write more about our Saturday evening soon.  Stay tuned!

In Search of Talavera

My brother and I, along with my cousins, grew up benefiting from our parents/grandparents passion for making ceramics. We all have chess sets, garlic keepers, vases and figurines - that have long out lived those that made them. I think it's one reason I buy at least one piece of pottery in every country I visit and want to get back into pottery by taking a class here in San Miguel.

Mexico is known for brightly colored Talavera ceramic flower pots. In fact, ceramics is the most practiced craft in Mexico. They are expensive in the United States and come to think of it, they are pretty expensive here in San Miguel. A recent trip to the Castillo Talavera Factory proved to be the most educational experience of our trip to San Miguel so far. 

First, those of you that know me, you know I am not the tour bus type. That said, we thought the no-fuss, no-muss trip, offered by la Biblioteca Publica (for $60), might just provide the entree into the factory we were looking for. A group of six people seemed low-key enough - no colored armbands, or worse, bright orange vests screaming "tourist", just a small unassuming group - yeah, right. 

Separating the Clay from other Debris

I wanted to get the back story, the first hand deal, the inside scoop on the ceramic pottery my mom loved so much. She always brought back some Talavera with each visit to Mexico - remember that giant blue parrot that hung in my kitchen all those years? That was my mom. I also wanted to see some techniques that might be applied to my own pottery in my class at Burroco. A full tour of the Castillo Talavera Factory in Dolores Hildago, provided this and more!

For starters, Talavera is not just flower pots or that figurine of the Mexican man with his face on his knees taking a siesta, like those that make it to the U.S. It's a plethora of dishes, bowls and platters, animals and bird baths and everything in between. 

The history and current production of this traditional art form is fascinating. Talavera is a type of maiolica earthenware, distinguished by its white-based glaze. Maiolica Pottery was brought to Mexico by the Spanish in the first century. But ceramics in Mexico, as we learned at the pyramids, dates back thousands of years to the pottery developed with the first advanced civilizations and cultures of Mesoamerica.  As I understand it, the process of harvesting the clay, refining it, pouring it into molds, and painting has changed little over the years.

In the last hundred years the process of making Talavera has been refined somewhat, firing at hotter temperatures, and using glazes and using special paints that make the black lines impenetrable by other colored paints. 

Making the Slip

The process goes a little something like this:

Making the Slip

First the clay is mined from clay beds in surrounding towns. The clay in the Hildago area is plentiful and just the right blend of clay and and sand. As I am learning in my pottery class, it is this perfect blend that makes the clay here so durable that it is often used in statues. The clay is then refined and mixed with water to make ceramic slip, which is then poured into molds and dried a little into green-ware. 

Smoothing Lines and Creases

Just this process takes days to complete. The slip is then poured into one of thousands of molds hand crafted by local artisans. The molded clay objects must then be inspected for imperfections, with lines and creases smoothed. 

On our tour, we learned that the women and men at the Castillo factory have a variety of skills, used at each step and each paid at different rates depending on the skills performed. The top pay is $120 a week.

The ceramics don't go to the kiln, the kiln goes to the ceramics - it rolls over the stacked ceramics, like a huge carport rolling over a car. It is made of fire resistant material, with a small hole so you can peek inside to see how it's doing. When the kiln is started, fire shoots up on the inside and last for up to 10 hours. 

Inspecting each Piece

Base Paint Applied

  

 

Ceramics Drying Before Going into the Kiln

Painting the Design

It takes another day to cool before it can be sent over for painting. I tell ya, I have a new appreciation for how much time and talent it takes to make even the simplest of geckos and the larger pieces are phenomenal!

Once the ceramics have been fired, oh and this is just the first time by-the-way, they are coated with a primer. According to our guide, this young man should be wearing a mask because the material is toxic!  

The ceramics then get passed on to the next artist, who adds the painted designs. He is paid the highest, because the designs are very specialized. The black paint he is using is like a permanent marker - he'd be one unpopular guy if he made a mistake at this stage! There are hundreds of designs that can be applied, each having a template. And, like any artist, he divides his object into sections so that there is patterning, dimension, and symmetry. I really could have watched this guy all day.
  

Painting the Biskware

A Long Line of Artists

The painters bring each piece to life, filling in rich colors and raised dots.. The original Talavera was a cream and blue color (perhaps you've seen it) but over the years the more colorful primary and secondary colored ceramics became more and more in demand. While in other areas of the factory you could hear people laughing and talking it was dead silent in this room, as people concentrated on their work.

In the end, our little group of six people slipped through the factory pretty well. There is only one tour a week, so I was proud to be a part of it. We exited through the store - the last stop. Of course, I poured over every bit of it, and took way too much time away from those who had worked up an appetite and were ready for lunch.

There was way too much to bring home, but we managed to find something for our new kitchen back home and for David's cubicle at the office.  I must say, it was an amazing day and well worth the money. 

For those of you thinking of taking this tour, the trip also included a visit to the church where Fr. Hildago made his historic "Greeto" to the people of Mexico, telling them to rise up and revolt against Spain. We visited the Hildago museum that honors that period of history and had our own personal historian. We visited the town of Atotonico, where people used to make their own private pilgrimage to the healing hot springs. 

She did look up and Quietly say, "Hola"

We topped it off by eating at a new and trendy restaurant called Nirvana - say no more! An expensive meal, but it was fun to try jamaica tacos, beet salad with pralines, vegan sushi and fruit salad with papaya, nuts and basil sherbet - More about the wonderful food and our picks for restaurants soon. 

I hope you enjoy reading this blog, it is still a bit of an experiment. Please leave a comment about things that interest you about Mexico. Think of it as the editorial page of the blog. 

And....Stay tuned!

On a Personal Note

El Parque on Three Kings Day

There are so many new things for us to experience in San Miguel - something new everyday! We've met some great people that we can chat with over dinner or join at an event. 

Each morning our built in alarm clocks go off at 6:45am - when the first church bells ring, prompting Catholics to go to mass. At 6:50 the dogs all start barking, and after sleeping all night, they have a lot to say. At 6:55 more church bells, giving us one more chance to get to church. At 7:00 the garbage men lead a parade, whistling and playing their dinner bells, to announce their arrival. There is also the shooting of cannons and the random discharging of firearms - all to greet the day.

Service workers can be seen in the early morning shadows, making their way to nearby restaurants, followed by sleepy-eyed children in their bright blue school uniforms. Next, the dog walkers emerge and other early risers - crazy joggers. The morning begins. Soon, the the hot air balloons are launched. As I make breakfast, I can see them as they seem to dangerously drag across the roof tops and disappear over the hillside.

This past week we attended the Three Kings Day celebration on January 6, where all the children received gifts, just like Jesus did from the three wise men. They celebrate with a beautiful wreath shaped fruit bread. Inside is a plastic figurine of the baby Jesus. Who ever gets the slice of bread with the baby Jesus in it dresses and cares for the baby Jesus and brings him to church for a special blessing. They also have to make tamales for their family on February 2nd, for the Fiesta de Candelaria celebration. I got the baby Jesus, so guess I'll be making the tamales!

Cindy and David at the pyramid

On Monday, David set up working from our casita while I went on the hunt for Lydia, a woman known to teach Tai Chi in the park. Well, no Lydia, but I did meet a woman from Ohio, who was also in search of Lydia. We never found Lydia but had a great time chatting and comparing notes about San Miguel, which is how it happens here. You learn something new about this place with everyone you meet. In the morning, the park is full of people walking, jogging, using the par-course, playing basketball and a big group of people doing a Mexican version of Zumba. No excuses! We quickly settled into our personal activities of yoga, walking and for David, running. I met Tanya, a Mexican yoga instructor, who teaches in a beautiful peaceful space near the park. What a fun way to learn the parts of body, as the yoga is taught in Spanish - yikes.

On Tuesday, David took the day off and we went to see the ancient pyramids of Canada de Virgin. Our guide was Albert Coffee an Archeologist from LSU, who brilliantly told us about the convergence of archeology, geography and astronomy. Amazing! More about this soon.

Natalie Hinshaw Bartholet

On Wednesday, we were lucky enough to be in San Miguel for the first art exhibit of Natalie Hinshaw-Bartholet, who splits her time between San Miguel and Stonington, CT. Wow, what a great Wednesday night out!  She displayed an amazing body of work. It was held at a new restaurant in El Centro called Lily's. Much of the proceeds go to Ojala de Ninos, where I will be volunteering over the next month. Even some of the kids from the Ojala program were there!

Fantastic art, wonderful pre-Hispanic food, new friends and an important charity. A group of us stayed for dinner after. We quickly converted the gallery back into a restaurant and ordered from a great menu of traditional Mexican and Native Mexican dishes. David and I had fried grasshopper and ant larva. - Yum! 

Ant Larva

Lily's with Art from Natalie

New friends and old

In San Miguel, there are fascinating lectures and films about environmental justice topics. on Thursday, I saw a wonderful film called, The Last Mountain, about coal mining in the Appalachian Mountains. Later, David and I went to hear two authors speak about their books, as part of a huge writers conference, featuring Alice Walker and Gloria Steinem. The first book, "The Servant Economy" was written by economist Jeff Faux, who founded the Economic Policy Institute in Washington. Amazing - take home message: our young people will not be as prosperous as we are. The second writer, was John Warley, who wrote "A Southern Girl". Both very entertaining and just an example of the talent San Miguel has to offer. 

We finished the week by me going to Ojala de Ninos to read with the children, eating a farm fresh dinner at home and then going to the local library for Indian inspired flute music that was phenomenal.

So, that was our first week here in San Miguel. Next week starts the real life living experience of David working more and more, and me taking my clay pottery class at Borroco and volunteering at Ojala, as our main workday objectives. Of course we plan a great side trip to Dolores Hildago to see how they make Talavera pottery (from start to finish) and learn more about the surrounding communities, horse back riding and a trip to the hot springs.

Stay tuned!

I Don't Know Art, But I Know What I Like

Experiencing Mexican art is amazing. Murals tell the stories of battles fought, of a farmer's plentiful harvest, of women carrying baskets of food, and the deep roots of their ancestry.  Stepping into an art museum anywhere in Mexico is an adventure - a visual awakening and, for me, something that feels like coming home.

Diego Rivera

To Americans, Diego Rivera is perhaps the most well known of all Mexican artists. So many of my friends have at least one of his prints hanging somewhere in their home. Rivera, a traditional muralist, started his career telling stories that reflected his communist political views and values of social justice. Fortunately for us, his controversial style changed as his attention focused on the softer life of Mexican people  - "The Flower Vendor", "The Grinder", and "The Rug Weaver" - my personal favorites. 

And who can forget the depictions of death and tragedy in the paintings of Frieda Kahlo, known mostly in the U.S. as Diego Rivera's wife. I was able to visit Diego Rivera's birthplace in Guanajuato City in 2012. Though the renovations to his childhood home were unfinished, and it held only a fraction of his work, is was wonderful to honor his contributions by paying a visit. More about Frida soon.


Alfredo Zalce

If I could meet any Mexican artist (deceased), it would have to be Alfredo Zalce, who was really the father of contemporary art in Mexico. Zalce's, who died in 2003, painted murals that depicted everyday life in Mexico -  the hardship of work, the joy of music, the teacher (perhaps a self portrait).  His paintings of women are among my favorite in the world. A museum in his name was built in Morelia, Michoacán - a surprise at every turn.

But my all-time favorite artist, though I know so little about him, is Ruben Morales. I first saw his work in San Miguel in 2012.  It was an instant love affair. I abandoned my own code of ethics and photographed as much of his work as I could find around town. Some of these photos are hanging in my house (don't tell anyone). This time, I want to meet him and buy one of his drawings - it would be my first REAL piece of art. Morales, who is now 66 years old, has been quoted as saying, “I try to create a feeling or emotion, maybe portraying melancholy or sadness.” He does this through faceless subjects in everyday situations: a woman selling flowers, an old man walking with a cane or a girl washing clothes. The mood is evoked with simple gesture, posture, and color applied in broad strokes.

I find it interesting that in my photography, I want to see every eyelash, every wrinkle and every shadow. So, I don't quite understand my soulful connection to the vague and abstract but it's undeniable as I look at the pastel work of Morales. 

Ruben Morales

Over the next month, I plan to visit as many art galleries in San Miguel, as I can. After all, San Miguel is known as a colony for artists, both Mexican and North American. My visit to San Miguel coincides with the first exhibit of friend and  painter Natalie Hinshaw Bartholet, who divides her time between Stonington, CT, and San Miguel. I will visit the Bellas Artes, the famous Instituto Allende and the Fabrica de Auroro. I hope you will enjoy my future posts about the art and artists I find and meet. 

So glad you are with me on this journey - Stay tuned.

Arriving in San Miguel

Arriving in San Miguel

It was the quickest flight into Mexico yet, from Providence, through Atlanta, Georgia and right into Leon - and as easy as flying anywhere. Just as Martha, our rental agent promised, Ignacio was there to greet us. Getting a few pesos at the airport ATM was easy, then we were on our way. Another hour (plus) journey in the full moon lit sky and we were safely delivered to our new home (well ok, just for the month). No cows on the road, although, I think David may have wondered where the heck I was taking him this time. 

The view from our casa on Piedras Chinas

The location of our 2bdrm casa, above the Jardin, is terrific - plenty of space, a great view of el Centro and little traffic. We woke up the first morning to the church bells ringing and the sight of hot air balloons dotting the landscape over the city. I was so excited, I almost had to pinch myself. After two years of vowing I'd come back, I'm here - and being welcomed by a parade of colorful balloons. 

Picking up a newspaper and having a good mexican breakfast were top of the list, so we headed to the library and nearby cafe. Since it was Saturday, what a better way to get some much needed fruit and yummy comida than to head to the organic market. Of course we dilly-dallied our way, meandering the narrow cobble stone streets, people watching and practicing Spanish greetings, "Hola, Buenos Dias". Rosetta Stone, don't fail me now. 

That tattered little map came in handy, folding and unfolding, folding and unfolding. We picked up organic honey, jam and bread, listened to music, and had some bean filled fresh tortillas and hibiscus tea. A great introduction to San Miguel for David. The community atmosphere was sweet and we talked to residents about their favorite places, stores, restaurants. 

Our new splash of color

Working for David, via internet, took some figuring out. It can be done easily with the connections we have, plus Skype, which we both purchased minutes from. We forgot a power cord, so the images in this blog, at least for now will have to be taken by cell phone. 

We took the first couple days orienting ourselves to San Miguel, hearing a guest lecturer on climate change at the UU church, tripping along the annual alternative art fair and making our first purchase, a hand woven area rug for our happy room at home - love it. While David works, I will continue to find interesting things to do, take an art class, volunteer my time, learn about this beautiful city and make new acquaintances. Together we will see pyramids, visit hot springs, travel the surrounding area, go to art exhibits, run in the park and taste the best food in San Miguel. Now that we are settled in, I will try to write every day.  Stay tuned!