Just Who Was Allende?

 
How did San Miguel get its name? Usually towns and cities are named after some famous person and San Miguel de Allende, as it turns out, is no exception. The story rivals those told by my good friend, Lisa Saunders (in the Seafarers Trail), who writes of secret plots during the American Revolution, New England's ancient mariners lost at sea and the ghosts of family members left behind. San Miguel de Allende is rich with history and the words "de Allende" (translated "of Allende") got me thinking, just who was Allende? 


Ignacio Allende - Statue in San Miguel

It turns out, as in all good revolutions, there is a traitor. For the Spain, that traitor was Ignacio Allende, who though born in Mexico, enlisted in the Spanish Army to fight against Mexican independence - that was until he began to sympathize with their cause.

Although there was evidence of an underground conspiracy, Allende continued meeting secretly with the Mexican opposition fighters - at first to gain information to relay to the Spanish Army. But as he became more sympathetic to the plight of the Mexican workers, he began plotting against the Spanish loyalists. He was a valued leader and since he was highly skilled, had lots of contacts and was charismatic, no one suspected the had "turned".  
 
It was news of Allende's betrayal, that forced the Mexican War of Independence to start ahead of schedule, with more of a poorly-armed and uncontrolled mob of thugs, than a real army. Marked by the ringing of church bells, on the early morning of September 16, 1810, the 11 year-old war for an independent Mexico began. For it was on that day, that Father Miguel Hidalgo gave his famous sermon "the Cry of Dolores", summoning hundreds of workers from the nearby fields to fight, along side he and Allende, for their freedom.  

Less than a year later, Allende and Hidalgo had been captured, after leading one of the most famous massacres of over 500 Spanish men, women and children in the nearby town of Guanajuato - many of them that burned to death. A disagreement over how to take Mexico City became their undoing - both men were eventually betrayed and captured. Allende became a prisoner of war. He, along with Hidalgo and two others insurgents, were tried for insubordination and executed by firing squad. 


The Angel of Independence

Their bodies were decapitated, their heads placed in a cage and prominently hung on the corner of a building in the center of town - no doubt to discourage others. With Allende and other opposition leaders out of the way, the Spanish were free to conduct the infamous ‘lottery of death, where the names of Guanajuato citizens were drawn at random and the ‘winners’ were tortured and hung.

Most interesting to me, is that the head of Allende hung from the Alhóndiga (a grain storage building turned fortress) for the next 10 years, until Mexico achieved its independence. He was finally laid to rest under the Angel of Independence in Mexico City. Of course this is just a very short version of the much more meaningful story of Mexican Independence - told countless times.

Funny, I now feel like I was such a tourist. I stood in front of the statue of Allende, the last time I was in San Miguel, and didn't think to learn more about his significance to this beautiful and independent city. This time, I will pause a little longer in front of Allende's statue, visit the Alhondiga (now a museum), look up at where Allende's head hung, and think about the thousands of Mexicans that fought for their freedom. When the morning church bells ring (as they do every morning in San Miguel), I will remember Father Hidalgo and wonder what he was feeling on that morning, over 200 years ago?  What was the future he envisioned for his beloved San Miguel? 


   

Previously in San Miguel

My time in San Miguel de Allende is calling me back:

House and Garden Tour

I have been looking at the photos of the last time I was in San Miguel - a trip with my good friend Mary, in December of 2012 (more about that soon).  Last night I poured through all the things I collected to guide my journey - the handheld "Best of San Miguel" map - used so much that it's ripped along the seams, so you can peek through the middle. I brought home, and kept, a now two-year-old copy of Atención (the Spanish/English newspaper, a great source to events like the Biblioteca's movie days or house and garden tours, outdoor art shows at Juarez Park (Parque Juarez), local theater, Audubon trips and other interesting things to do. I am also remembering some things that are on my San Miguel "bucket list" - a visit to the hot springs, horseback riding, and taking an art or cooking class (stay tuned and share those experiences with me). I can't wait until the next edition comes online, so I can make some plans. Take a look at the Atención; what would you chose to do, if you were coming with me? Ah, decisions, decisions!

Colorful Mexican Kitchens

Today, it is about securing a place to stay, getting D's passport (since it is lost in the abyss of merging two households into one) and then getting our plane tickets. We are fortunate to have found a property manager in San Miguel, recommended by a friend that lives in the area. Martha is taking care of the San Miguel side of things - she found us a great place to stay - close to the action of the city center (el centro), with a colorful kitchen, quiet workspace for D and a great view (Oh that view). Travel from the airport in Leon is a must, since we won't be renting a car for this trip. Martha has arranged for someone to come and get us - yay!  It's about a 2 hour drive, through mostly farm land, with a few small towns in between. I remember the last time I landed in Leon. We arrived late and didn't want to travel at night, so we stayed at the Wyndham Garden Hotel. We could see the hotel across the highway, but no real way to walk there. I think we paid a cab about $30 (maybe each) just to drive us across the street - yikes!  This time, it's all the way to San Miguel, sunlight or not. Thank you Martha!

From our stay at the "Flower Pot" in 2012

I am also starting to list the things I want to bring from home. I am reminded that when my friend Mary and her husband Abdi went on their year around the world, they opened the question of what to pack to the students following their journey. What to bring - definitely some really great comfortable shoes. Like my mom used to say, "if your feet feel good, the rest of your body will follow". I also hear that the best way to ensure that your will return to a country is to keep some of it's money.  When I left India, I made sure to spend every last rupee, only to find some crumpled into a pocket of some dirty and very dusty pants. When I left Mexico, I proudly kept enough for that taxi ride and some coffee. While India may very well be in my future, it's time to return to Mexico. So, two things are already packed - shoes and some pesos! 

Tonight - I start Rosetta Stone - más pronto!

Bound for Mexico

Recent exhibit at Provenance Gallery

I am heading to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico for a long overdue adventure - the sites, the sounds, the people, the flavors, the art, and oh - those cobble stone streets. I've always wanted to tell a story and there's plenty to be told, right from our cozy casa in the colonial city of San Miguel. I'm used to writing a travel journal, but until now, it has just been for me. This time, I have decided to step it up - share my experiences and describe the things I find fascinating about this part of Mexico.  Best of all, I get to bring you along. So stay tuned for a look back at previous trips to Mexico (there have been a few), as I prepare to leave for San Miguel in January 2015. Viva Mexico!

If you want to follow along, please add your email to the "Follow by Email" tab to the right :) or follow me on Facebook at www.facebook.com/cindy06340. Ole'.

La Parroquia and City Center