Out and About in San Miguel

Getting out and about in San Miguel is easy, as far as cities with hills, narrow streets, cobble stones, buses, taxis - and did I mention LOTS of hills? For the most part, we walk everywhere we go, with the exception of an occasional late night, when the day has done us in.  Our place is up hill from El Centro, which means that it is high enough to have a great view and high enough to be a HIKE. Here is a photo of our place. We have the second and third floor with big windows in the front for seeing the hot air balloons in the morning and hearing the collective church bells ringing in unison. It's perfect for us.

My pocket street map has done its job, leading us to movies, restaurants, events around town, bakeries, etc. Just when I think we don't need it anymore, we find ourselves comparing notes or second guessing. Don't get me wrong, there are landmarks, but the landmarks all seem to look the same.  What you don't see very often is bicycles. This little guy, who was way to small for the size of the bike, had no problem scooting up our street. He was adorable and the only bike rider I've seen.

Walking the cobblestone streets can be challenging, but great for building good balance and strong ankles. I challenge even the best multi-tasking adolescent, my niece included (and she's good) to text while navigating the streets of San Miguel. No surprise, I've been late a time or two, to a class or event, and running down the street nearly killed me. A 30 minute walk to my pottery class gives me an opportunity to play the game of trying to select a flat stone for each and every step, or counting how many flat stones I can step on in a row, before I mistakenly step on an ankle-twister. One thing is for sure Robert Sweetgall would be happy - I'm getting in my 10,000 steps a day. 

Taxis are plentiful and charge about 30 pesos ($2 US) to go down hill and about 40 pesos to go back up. There was a price hike recently, so don't plan your budget by Trip Advisor. Knowing the one way streets and the best places for catching a cab can save you money, i.e., avoid cabs waiting at the bus station or having someone call you one - you'll pay a lot more! It hasn't been scientifically proven, but my observation is that the cab drivers give you a bit of a break, if you do your best to have a conversation with them - in Spanish (yikes!)

The cabs are all green but, as we learned when David left his cell phone and hat in a cab, there are about 12 different companies (never did find the phone and hat). For the most part, the taxi drivers are all great - eager to talk about the day, share about San Miguel, correct your Spanish, etc. Edwardo, my driver to the Tuesday Market, worked many years ago in a U.S. hospital, so he spoke a little English. Great fun!

I learned early on that taking the bus, although not popular with the Gringos, is really the way to go, if you have half a day to kill. It cost 5 pesos to go to any destination in the San Miguel. Go anywhere in the world and I guarantee, you'll see the greatest slice of life by taking the bus.

I first decided to try it, after taking a taxi to one of the big mega markets. With my bags full to the brim with fruits, vegetables, oatmeal, etc., I said no to at least six taxi drivers, who thought for sure I was waiting for them. I wasn't sure how to take the bus, but was bound and determined, after all, what could happen, right? The buses have the name of the destination on the front window (most of the time). It took a very long time to get within walking distance of home, but for 5 pesos, I got the best taste of life in San Miguel. It was also the cheapest tour bus I've ever been on - 35 cents. 

I've almost missed the bus to the market on a few occasions, because the bus stop in el Centro is always so full of excitement. People watching is terrific and I just find watching people, watch people so entertaining - people begging, street food being prepared, fruit being sold, school children coming and going, people getting home from work are all part of the experience. Amazing!

 
So quick story: Last week, I took a taxi to the edge of town, to go to the huge tianquis (flea market) known locally as the Tuesday Market. Hundreds of Mexicans were there, buying and selling anything and everything (more about this fun market soon). When I entered the bus to get back into town, it was packed - standing room only. I looked around, trying to take-in the vibe of the bus. I found myself wondering if Mexican men ever give-up their seat on a bus to an older woman, especially older exhausted women who bought too much at the market (it was the end of a long day and I could have used a seat). Looking side-to-side, I saw I was the only gringo on the bus.  

As more and more people packed onto the bus, I found myself being pushed farther and farther back, still standing uncomfortably, with all my purchases, in the center isle. As I inched, I became more aware that I was nearing the back of the bus and might run out of room. That was when I turned and saw Gloria Steinem, sitting there, by herself, riding in the back of a bus, in the middle of Mexico. I knew she was coming for a writer's conference in February, but never expected to see her. As I turned, and OK, I admit it - starred at her, she smiled slightly, as if to say, "we are sharing this moment, you and I, and it's pretty #%*%@* incredible." 

Later, after she got off, I chucked to myself - for I actually thought about men (Mexican or otherwise) giving up their seat on a bus to a woman, in the presence of Gloria Steinem. 

So my take home message? Take to bus when visiting San Miguel, and stand proudly in the center isle.   Stay tuned.